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SAN FERNANDO |
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SAN FERNANDO , 50km north of Manila and the capital of Pampanga
province, is best known for its controversial crucifixion of flagellants
. Every year on Good Friday a dozen or so penitents - mostly men but
with the occasional woman and sometimes even the odd foreigner - are
taken to a rice field in the barrio of San Pedro Cutud, 3km from San
Fernando, and nailed to a cross using two-inch stainless steel nails
that have been soaked in alcohol to disinfect them. The penitents are
taken down seconds later. Other penitents flagellate themselves using
bamboo sticks tied to a rope. The blood is real, but the motivation is
questionable. The Catholic Church does not approve of the crucifixions
and does not endorse them. The media has also turned against the rites,
calling them pagan and barbaric but generally admitting they are still a
good show. Whatever your opinion, the crucifixions fascinate tourists
and social voyeurs.
Bus terminals in Manila are closed on Good Friday, so you'll have to
travel to San Fernando the night before. Victory Liner buses leave every
hour (P80) from Pasay . Make sure you don't confuse San Fernando in
Pampanga with San Fernando in La Union, further north. Most buses travel
up the North Luzon Expressway and exit at Paskuhan Vilage, a tourist
village that sells native handicrafts. Paskuhan is also the site of the
tourist office (tel 045/961 2665) and you can ask the bus driver to let
you get off here. San Fernando proper is five minutes away by road and
you can reach it by jeepney from Paskuhan (P15). Regular jeepneys
connect San Fernando with its northern neighbours of Angeles (15min;
P12.50) and Clark (25min; P22).
There is a dearth of good places to stay in San Fernando. The best
option is Pampanga Lodge (under $5), opposite the church, which has
simple fan doubles. Most travellers, however, opt to spend the night in
nearby Clark, where there's a much wider choice of rooms. San Fernando's
main drag is lined with fast-food restaurants .
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