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DUMAGUETE |
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The City of Gentle People lives up to its name. DUMAGUETE , capital
of Negros Oriental, lies on the southeast coast of Negros, within sight
of the most southerly tip of Cebu Island. It's off the traditional
tourist track, but it's hard to understand why because it has exquisite
architecture, mile upon mile of sandy beach, and pleasant piazzas where
residents promenade every evening or indulge in a spot of al fresco
ballroom dancing. It's close to the marine sanctuary of Apo Island where
the scuba diving is superlative. North of the city is the small coastal
town of Bais, where you can hire boats to go whale- and dolphin-watching.
Dive outfits such as Cocktail Divers, based at Yhalason Beach west of
the city, organize scuba courses and trips to Apo.
The small airport is a few kilometres northwest of the city centre.
Tricycles make the airport-to-city trip for about P30. The alternative
is to fly to Cebu and get the fast ferry from Cebu City. WG&A Superferry
and Negros Navigation both have regular sailings to and from Manila.
WG&A also goes from Dumaguete to Cagayan de Oro, while Negros Navigation
serves Tagbiliran on Bohol. The pier in Dumaguete is at the end of Rizal
Avenue, a few minutes by jeepney or taxi from the city. Delta fast
ferries (tel 035/225 6358) has daily departures to Cebu, Siquijor and
Dapitan. Buses arrive at terminals at the far south of Perdices Street,
on the far side of the Benica River. A jeepney into the city costs P10.
Buses for other destinations on Negros also leave from these terminals.
The tourist information office (Mon-Sat 8.30am-6pm; tel 035/225 0549) is
in the City Hall complex on Colon Street and the Immigration Office ,
which can arrange visa extensions without going through Manila, is at 38
Dr V Locsin St. The post office on Santa Catalina Street offers poste
restante, and for Internet access the cafés around the Silliman
University complex, at the northern end of Hibbard Street, are a good
bet; try Surf Station Internet Café on Katada cor. Hibbard Avenue. The
Music Box on Rizal Avenue is Dumaguete's premier expat hangout and a
good place to gather intelligence. It offers Internet access and
transport to local beach resorts.
In Dumaguete there is plenty of budget accommodation around the main
plaza. Theresa's Lodge (tel 035/225 4827; under $5) on San Juan Street
has fairly spartan but clean rooms, with shared facilities. Vintage Inn
(tel 035/225 1076; $5-10), on Legaspi Street opposite the public market,
has singles and doubles, with air con. Overlooking the sea on Rizal
Boulevard is Bethel Guest House (tel 035/225 2009; $15-20), a tall
building with singles, doubles and clean facilities.
South of Dumaguete is beach resort country, with a good range of clean
and affordable accommodation close to the sea, often with dive schools
attached. DAUIN is a popular port of call, twenty minutes' journey by
bus or jeepney from Dumaguete. El Dorado's beach resort is comfortable,
has a good restaurant, a popular bar and offers diving at Apo Island.
About 45 minutes' bus ride north of Dumaguete is BAIS , a centre for
whale- and dolphin-watching. One of the nicest places to stay here is La
Planta (tel 541-5755; $25-40), a colonial-style pension on the hill with
wonderful views and a pretty restaurant.
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